Smells like J.P. Morgan’s Cuban cigar? “Although the majority of the people around in 1906 would have been men with their manly scents, there was also Belle da Costa Greene who was a powerful presence as J. P. Morgan’s librarian.”
What do the wives of Robert E. Lee, Abraham Lincoln, and Jefferson Davis have in common? For one, they were all clients of dressmaker Elizabeth Keckley, successful dressmaker, businesswoman, and author of Behind the Scenes, or, Thirty Years a Slave and Four Years in the White House. [E457.15 .K26 1868].
After buying her own freedom in St. Louis with the support of her network of satisfied dress customers, Keckley set up shop in Civil War-era Washington, D.C. and soon acquired a notable clientele. The wife of the new president, Mary Todd Lincoln, hired Keckley as her modiste. Keckley went on to create the first lady’s extensive wardrobe. She also became the first lady’s confidante and friend—at least until her book came out.
When the dressmaker’s memoir was published in the late 1860s, controversy ensued. The book revealed information about the private lives of Mary Todd Lincoln and other inhabitants of the White House. This was met with much criticism, from the press and Mrs. Lincoln herself. Keckley defended herself by claiming that her revelations were meant to help and not hinder the former first lady, who was embroiled in controversy herself after selling mementos from her time in the White House to pay off debts.
Aside from the insights into the White House, Keckley’s memoir contains her account of her years in slavery and the success she gained as a businesswoman once she gained her freedom. Beyond dressmaking, Keckley was also a philanthropist. Her creation of the Contraband Relief Association in 1862 helped newly freed slaves with food, shelter, clothing and support. (If you’re watching the PBS series Mercy Street, the second season has a focus on the experience of those in a contraband camp.)
The images above are from our copy of her memoir in the Dibner Library for the History of Science and Technology in the @amhistorymuseum. That museum also holds a couple dresses designed and made by Keckley. See them (and more) in the Smithsonian Collections Search. You can also learn more about Keckley from this blog post.
Our copy of Behind the Scenes is not digitized, but a copy from the University Library at UNC Chapel Hill was digitzed for @internetarchive, should you want to read it.
Source: Digital Methods for Web Research by Richard Rogers
Sometimes the media needs to remind us who the truly tough, mysterious characters are in this world, and they usually hang out with books. It’s so interesting to see the irony, the complexity and the romantic view of this sweet sweet employment.
Make sure y'all check out Amandla Stenberg’s ‘Niobe’ comic book series!
